The downpour was short lived, giving way to a blissful two weeks of hot summer days. The first was spent wandering the city on bustling streets that gave way to forest paths, leading in turn to mountainous lookout points. Here, on top of Mount Victoria, 195 meters above sea level looking out over the Cook Strait, you begin to get a sense of the scale of New Zealand's beauty.
A beauty which, a few days later, had my nose pressed up against the car window as we drove a couple of hours outside the city to the Wairarapa coast. I've been fortunate enough to see some picturesque sunsets in my life, but as the clarion day fell drowsily into the arms of dusk, the sky above the mountains was suffused with a rosy hue that, framed by the endless rolling hills of Aotearoa's famous landscape, was breath taking. As night fell, a carpet of luminous stars hovered above us, making it easy to see why over 4,000 square kilometers of this country have recently been recognised as an International Dark Sky Reserve.
At Glenburn, there was nothing between us and the Antarctic. Just 3,000 miles of the Southern and South Pacific Ocean and the remote Chatham Island archipelago. Here, strolling along the expansive coastline at what feels like the end of the world, delicately picking up scattered whale vertebrae the size of dinner plates, you can't help but feel somewhat connected to this vast landscape. There really aren't enough synonyms for green to fully convey the viridescence of this country, one which accompanies you even alongside the highway, all the way back to the city.
Wellington has that infectious combination of urban energy and verdant charm. It's a city to imbibe in, with hundreds of coffee shops in a density that rivals New York City, 18 craft beer breweries registered with the Brewers Guild of New Zealand and numerous food markets. Sitting side by side to the expansive nature reserves, parks and protected green spaces is the cultural heart of New Zealand, with arts festivals happening throughout the year.
Wellington has a laid back charm that makes other major cities look frenetic in comparison. You can't help but fall in love with the mellow energy here, and it has so far proved to be a mere peek through the keyhole of what's in store for the rest of these two islands. Here, 12,000 miles away from where I started, life is good.
